Albariño: the golden liquid of Spain
Like any industry, the wine business is always changing and developing, influenced by climate, fashions and the work of wine-makers, producers and drinkers all over the world. It is both fun and interesting to see these developments and to try the various, lesser known wines now more widely available. Many wine-producing countries are challenging commonly held views about their wines, and Spain is one of those that merit a closer look.
A popular belief is that Spain is a producer of mass-produced wine of variable quality – the reds are often rather old from aging in oak and feature reductive aromas, or simply cheap plonk that, while is does not offend, does not delight enough to deserve a higher price. As for Spanish white wine, you would be forgiven for naming just the sparkling Cava as a white wine produced here. The most widely planted white grape in Spain is in fact, the hardy Airén, most often used as a base for Spanish brandy.
But look a little further and you can find some lovely Spanish white wines, including Verdejo from Rueda and Albariño grown in Galicia. This latter variety has contributed significantly to Spain’s quest to regain credibility for its white wines in both local and international markets.
Wine-makers have taken a closer look at their terroir – the geography, geology and climate influencing the grapes and resulting wines, to select the right grape for any specific region and show how different grape varieties respond in different terroirs. This can restore the power and pride of the wine-maker who can show how his unique terroir can alter the subtleties of his particular wine. These delicate differences and unusual flavours can certainly be found in Albariño – a white wine not to be missed.
It is thought that Albariño was brought to Galicia by monks during their pilgrimages to Santiago de Compostela in the Middle Ages. The name, Alba-Riño, means “the white (wine) from the Rhine” and was therefore believed to be a clone of the Riesling grape variety originating from Alsace in France.
Albariño vineyards are planted on the granite-based soils of the Rias Baixas region, in a damp, maritime climate which helps to bring out a crisp acidity and enhance the natural flavours and aromas of the wine. The thick skin of the Albariño grape loves this damp climate and yields small, sweet fruit with significant glycerol content to make wines with relatively high alcohol and acidity.
While the various sub-zones within the region express subtle differences, they all share a number of characteristics. Albariño is pale, lemon gold in colour and the wines are typically packed with flavours of apple, apricot, melon and citrus. The very best quality Albariños are very aromatic, and add peaches and almonds to their flavour profile. In fact, many growers are realising the potential of this grape variety for really premium wines that can age well, and are now experimenting with oak maturation. These complex, medium-bodied, tasty wines can fetch a high price, but the essential flavours of the grape and natural complexity can be found in pretty much every price bracket, so it’s worth trying a couple – if only to discover a pleasing variety, easy to match with food and aromatic enough to drink alone.
Do send us your recommendations, and try some we have listed below for starters!
- Albarino, Santiago Ruiz 2010 from Bancroft wines at £11.55/bottle
- Sin Palabras Albariño 2010 from Laithwaites at £13.49/bottle
- Orballe Albarino, Rias Baixas 2010 from M&S – £53.96/ case of 6 bottles
Simona Caprioli Motteram
Published: 05.03.2010 Buletín de Turismo de las Rias Baixas
Translated: 13.01.2011
> Front of House training courses
Noble Vines introduces three new Front of House training courses
The Art of Serving Wine is an ideal training course for front of house staff- this 5 hours course provides an amusing and dynamic guide to do’s and don’ts.
It is designed for temporary staff employed at dining venues with little or no knowledge of wines and its service.
This 5 hours course is divided into 5 separate interactive sessions and, thanks to its modular concept it can be tailor-made to your business needs and also divided as necessary into more sessions.
Main topics are:
- Guidelines for Perfect Wine Service;
- How to take Food & Wine Orders;
- White vs. Reds Basics (a short introduction to the different grapes and wine-styles);
- Basics rules about Wine Tasting Basics of Wine & Food Matching;
- Social Responsibility (How to deal with inebriated customers).
Attendees will receive detailed handouts, test questions and easy to remember guidelines.
This course is presented by Dr. Simona Caprioli, a member of the Italian Institute of Sommeliers, a Master of Wine student and an experienced WSET educator. She has a background working in restaurants with both practical experience and theoretical knowledge of wines and wine service.
We run these events either at your premises or a convenient close by location. Tuition costs are £100 per person- with up to 15 attending each course
BASICS ON WINES, BEERS & SPIRITS
(ALL THAT STAFF NEED TO KNOW BUT WERE AFRAID TO ASK)
This 6 hours functional course is designed for front of house, pub staff and bartenders. Divided into 5 interactive sessions it is an easy and effective way to learn the basics on wines, beers and spirits , (way of production and different styles), the main cocktails, wine-tasting and social responsibility.
Main topics are:
- Basics on White & Reds (grapes and main wine styles) + matching with pub food
- Basics on Beers (production, main styles and differences)
- Basics on Spirits (Main spirits: Whisky, Cognac, Gin, Vodka, Tequila. Production and styles)
- Guidelines on the main cocktails (How to make the 5 most requested cocktails)
- Social Responsibility (How to deal with inebriated customers)
Attendees will receive detailed handouts, test questions and easy to remember guidelines.
This course is presented by Dr. Simona Caprioli, a member of the Italian Institute of Sommeliers, a Master of Wine student and an experienced WSET educator. She has a background working in restaurants with both practical experience and theoretical knowledge of wines and wine service.
We run these events either at your premises or a convenient close by location. Tuition costs are £120 per person- with up to 15 attending each course.
WINE & FOOD PAIRING ESSENTIALS
These attractive courses bring to life the art of wine and food matching.
The aim is not to impose a prescriptive set of rules based only on strict scientific methodology or to define which wine to pair with a particular dish, but to provide a more practical approach to this subject.
You will better appreciate a lunch, dinner or just a friendly moment choosing the right wine for the right occasion and especially avoid wines that are not suitable with some preparations.
Wine & food pairing for professionals:
This 4 hour course for professionals is divided into 2 sessions of two hours each, including the theoretical and themed tasting of 4 wines paired with at least four basic preparations.
During the course we will provide:
- Basic rules for matching wine and food
- Tasting Notes and guidelines for wine and food
This course is presented by Dr. Simona Caprioli, a member of the Italian Institute of Sommeliers, a Master of Wine student and an experienced WSET educator. She has a background working in restaurants with both the practical experience and theoretical knowledge of wine and food matching.
We run these events either at your premises or a convenient close by location. Cost is £70 per person, including the provision of all wines, foods and course materials- with up to 15 attending each course
Wine & food pairing for wine enthusiasts
This 2.5 hour course covers:
- Basic rules on wine and food pairing
- Combination of foods with white and sparkling wines
- Matching foods with red, dessert and fortified wines.
This course is presented by Dr. Simona Caprioli, a member of the Italian Institute of Sommeliers, a Master of Wine student and an experienced WSET educator. She has a background working in restaurants with both the practical experience and theoretical knowledge of wine and food matching.
This course can be run for small groups with as little as 6 and up to 15 people. We run these events either at your premises or a convenient close by location. Cost is £40 per person, including the provision of all wines, foods and course materials.
For more details please either call 01932 828129 or e mail:info@noblevines.co.uk
> Bodega Gómez y Rial ALBARIÑO COMPOSTELAE 2010
Spain can be pretty hot and dry, which is lovely for a holiday but really good vines will be a bit more demanding. Sunshine is good, but moisture is important too, and happily can be found in the green and mountainous northwest corner of Spain, known as Galicia. The steep slopes so suitable for the vines are forged by the deep, wide inlets from the Atlantic Ocean, known as rias. The southern-most group of these are called the Rias Biaxas; hence the Denominación de Origen, Rias Baixas.The best known white grape variety grown here is Albariño. This produces dry, mineral, white wines that match the local fish recipes impeccably. Albariño is sometimes blended with other local grapes such as Loureiro and Treixadura for a slightly more complex and internationally appealing wine, but today, we are tasting a pure Albariño from the coolest part of the region, Ribera do Ulla, home to the best white wines of Spain
The city of Santiago de Compostela has been a destination for pilgrims since the Middle Ages. They would travel all the way from France, along the “Way of St James” to the shrine of St. James in the Cathedral at Santiago de Compostela. This holy, famous journey has been the subject of many books and television programmes, including Brian Sewell’s The Naked Pilgrim. Pilgrims gained the right to free accommodation in various locations all along the Way of St James, from France to the town of Santiago itself. They needed to produce a “compostela” or letter, stamped with the Papal seal to show their authenticity. Doubtless, once they arrived they’d be in need of a nice refreshing glass of Albariño!
This wine is bright and clear, pale gold in colour. It has lovely fruity and floral aromas: orange peel, chamomile, a little caramel even, along with some mineral notes – whiffs of the seaside if you like. The body is medium-light and there is a soft, lingering texture. Always the sign of a good wine, there is a lovely balance is between the alcohol, citrus fruit flavours and mineral acidity. The finish is persistent and aromatic. If you are dining on a fresh seafood risotto or octopus salad, this Albariño will most certainly be welcomed at your table and quickly feel a part of the family!
Matching: Seafood, vegetables, rice, Oriental style meals and spicy food.
Available at £13.50/bottle from our website.
Phone us at: 01932 828129 or send a mail at: info@noblevines.co.uk
You must be over 18 years old to purchase wine in the UK. Proof of age and identify may be required.
> Superstar Wines – July 2011
ITSAS MENDI Nº7 2009
July has arrived!
Off on holiday already? Or just counting down the days to go? Whichever the case, you’ll think you are already there with this lovely Spanish wine that lifts your tastebuds as well as your mood.
Itsas Mendi n°7 2009 is possibly the finest wine from the Itsas Mendi winery in the Basque region of North-Eastern Spain. The actual delimited region is called Bizkaino Txakoli (have a few glasses and say that more than once!), the gorgeous green hills near the Bizkaia Gulf.
A considerable percentage of the grapes used for this wine are the indigenous Hondarrabi Zuri, added to approximately 20% Riesling. This gives an intense bright yellow colour and aromatic notes of grapefruit, fresh herbs and orange blossom, – as you might expect from the Riesling variety.
Left in contact with the lees – or yeasts used to make wine, for several months during maturation, the wine also has a warmer, toasty note to it, making suitable to drink on its own or with food. The palate is fresh and smooth with some mineral notes balanced nicely with a hint of stone fruit and a little spice on the length.
Could it improve with age? Of course! But can you wait? No way. Drink it now, with shellfish risotto sautéed mussels or a simple salad.
Available in the best wine shops or on line at:
Approx. £16 – 22 per bottle
> Superstar Wines – June 2011
2008 Camplazens “ La Garrigue”
If you are reading this, the chances are that a small part of you will have considered, at some time, the romantic possibility of owning your own vineyard. Strolling through the vines in the sunset, producing a wonderful, critically acclaimed wine, picking your own fruit in the little orchard alongside your estate, collecting fresh eggs from your happy, roaming chickens and showing wine enthusiasts your magical winery…Oh stop me now!
But it can happen, and one of my most interesting meetings at the London International Wine Fair last week was with Susan and Peter Close, owners of the Chateau Camplazens Estate and makers of a super wine called La Garrigue. Originally from the North of England, this couple moved to La Clape in Coteaux de Languedoc to pursue their passion for wine – and great food, in this idyllic location.
Their mission is to develop this beautiful estate and produce wines with real personality, full of the flavours and aromas of Mediterranean France. The Closes have a put heart and soul into the wine, adopting low yield, organic viticulture and modern vinification techniques.
“La Garrigue” is used to describe the low-growing, scented vegetation particular to the Mediterranean coast. Bushy, fragrant plants grow wild on the limestone hills and fill the air with herbal aromas. The wine of the same name is made from a blend of 60% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 10% Carignan – the three grape varieties that dominate this part of France. Pungent aromas of thyme and myrtle alongside red plum flavours and a sweet, spicy note make this a juicy, well-balanced wine that you won’t forget in a hurry.
It would go wonderfully well with a summer barbeque, but if you’re feeling intrepid, why not try it with some cured cheeses, and let us know what you think!
Price approximately £ 12.00 per bottle
Available on line at:
> Superstar Wines – May 2011
…And the best wine producer…comes from Israel!
I don’t expect you thought you’d hear that in 2011! But this was declared at the 19th International Vinitaly 2011 Wine Competition, as Golan Heights Winery earned the 2011 Gran Vinitaly Special Award for the World’s Best wine Producer.
Golan Heights Winery is a relatively young cellar founded in 1983 in Israel, and markets its wines under the renowned Yarden, Gamia and Golan brands. The two winning wines leading to this Italian accolade are the 2009 Yarden Chardonnay Odem Organic Vineyard and the 2008 Yarden Heights Wine.
Now, I can’t claim to have a cellar full of these winners, but I did try the Yarden Mount Hermon Red, a Kosher wine from the cool Yarden region in Israel and I can certainly recommend that!
Featuring an ancient Israeli, Aladdin-style oil lamp, nothing much happened when I rubbed the bottle, but when I tasted the contents I was most pleasantly surprised. Lovely, aromatic raspberry and cherry flavours lie beautifully alongside herby, tarragon notes, along with a hint of black pepper. Grapes are Bordeaux varieties, with a little malbec thown in; giving a medium body with a generous, long finish.
Enjoy with a wide variety of foods, from tapas and pizza to barbequed meats.
Price approximately £ 12.00 -13.00 per bottle
Available on line at:
> Superstar Wines – April 2011
José Pariente “Verdejo 2009”, a quality Verdejo.
Now the weather has brightened up I can’t imagine a better way of spending these warm April days than finally sitting outside a nice pub or on a restaurant terrace, sipping a lovely white wine, waiting for my meal to come.
This is my favourite time of year, bright sun coupled with a fresh springtime breeze make me feel summer holidays are inching closer every day!
Some of my most treasured Easters have been spent in Spain. I love their relaxed, late lunches – fresh seafood tapas and the taste of salt in the air. You know, a little glass of white wine or sherry as a pre-lunch aperitif whets the appetite and gives a proper holiday feel to the day.
Even though Spain is famous for red wine, there are some delicious, refreshing whites that must be sampled. The Verdejo grapes of the north-central Rueda region give a light, grassy taste reminiscent of a Sauvignon Blanc, with aromatic, verdant notes and smooth, nutty length.
Verdejo José Pariente 2009 is one of my favourites, as it shows all the very best characters of the variety, with plenty of fruity, spring-like flavours, I’m transported straight into holiday mode!
Price approximately £ 10-11 per bottle
Available on line at: www.snooth.co.uk
> Superstar Wines – March 2011
Dolcetto di Dogliani San Luigi 2007 Pecchenino
It has been another long winter, but finally it seems that spring has sprung! The evenings are getting longer and the mornings lighter, though there is still a nip in the air. To keep the chill at bay treat yourself to a hug in a glass, with a delicious, fruity Dolcetto de Dogliani, by San Luigi
Dolcetto means sweet in Italian, and this dry red wine will give a hint of sweetness, with its soft, fruity aromas and supple tannins. This is an elegant, intense red from Langhe Hill, which is the same area to produce the famous Barolo wine.
These succulent Dolcetto grapes give flavours and aromas of fresh cherry, raspberry and plum along with a savoury note and the elegant freshness that is associated with Italian red wines. This is the perfect match for the Sunday Roast or try, as I did, with a lovely terrine of rabbit.
Priced approximately £11-13 per bottle.
Available on-line:
> Our guest writer Alex Rabagliati gives his views on German wine
Rieslings to be cheerful
It’s hard to believe, but there was a time when German wines were the most expensive and highly regarded in the world, and the UK their most ravenous consumer. Wine lists from the 19th century price Rhine Rieslings above the most exalted Bordeaux chateaux. Now, of the ten major wine-importing nations to the UK, German wine is the cheapest-per-bottle, and sales decline year-on-year.
The dominant German import by volume is the cheap flute of sugar-water, popular in the 1970s and 1980s, and now dying off as its ageing customer base declines – ‘Hock’, as its loosely termed.
It’s hard to imagine a wine less marketable than Hock. Sweet and floral, only 9% alcohol, served in a Blue Nun-style flute bottle, it is totally at odds with the market’s current success story, Pinot Grigio, typically made bone dry, 12% alcohol, and aromatically neutral. Yet Liebfaumilch, Hock, Piesporter, Niersteiner, and so on, are the sole image of German wine in the eyes of the British public. They are all cheap imitations of one of wine’s most brilliant and distinctive styles – the off-dry Riesling Kabinett – and they have led most wine drinkers to believe that wines of off-dry and medium sweetness levels are always cheap and nasty, when in fact they can be unsurpassably good.
Riesling is Germany’s signature grape, and no other country vinifies it so well, but Germany also makes great Pinot Noir, Sylvaner, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc to name but a few. When fermented dry, Riesling’s lime-scented, unoaked, minerally sheen makes it ideal for the contemporary Sauvignon-loving consumer. Germany makes a lot of dry Riesling, perfect for the UK, but visit the wine aisle of any supermarket and you’re likely to find examples from Australia, New Zealand or Chile rather than Germany. Supermarket German wine ranges are rooted in the styles of the 1970s – lots of own-label Hock, some Black Tower thrown in for good measure, all tucked away, as if in embarrassment, on the bottom shelf. How can perception of German wine change if modern, dry styles are unavailable to the consumer?
To understand why Germany’s reputation has been so defaced, we have to look back to the 1960s and 1970s, when, in the face of difficult economic conditions, the German government made a number of decisions to support the trade in cheap, sweet wines. These decisions, beneficial in the short-term, have ruined the industry’s international reputation and are the reason we see so little in the UK of what modern German wine has to offer.
The worst crime these Blue Nun wines were permitted to commit was to emulate Germany’s great wines, and thereby taint their reputation. Most damaged has been the noble Riesling grape. Surely the most naturally exquisite white grape in wine’s canon, it produces wines from thrillingly dry to unctuously sweet, and even sparkling. It ages effortlessly for decades, has a kaleidoscopic and haunting flavour profile, and transmits the characteristics of its vineyard with chameleon-like transparency. Bottom-end German wines were marketed as close as possible to fine Riesling, with the flute bottle, pseudo-historical gothic-scripted labeling, and a semi-sweet flavour. In fact they were made largely with Müller-Thurgau, a rather less noble grape, bred in a laboratory in the 1920s. Best known for ripening consistently in cold climates – it was the backbone of most undrinkable English wine of the post-war period.
To pile further degradation on Germany’s prestigious winemaking tradition, the industry, in an astonishing act of self-harm, allowed producers of plonk to ‘borrow’ the names of the great winemaking villages which they neighboured, and bathe in their reflected glory like knock-off Prada handbags. Hence villages like Nierstein and Piesport, home to such great vineyards as the Goldtröpfchen and the Brudersberg, became synonymous with Nierseiner Gutes Domtal and Piesporter Michelsberg – wines made in industrial quantities on unsuitable land. As the prestige of cheap German wine declined, so did that of the fine wine it imitated.
The abuses of German bureaucracy have led to the impression amongst most wine drinkers that the country does not produce fine wine. This misunderstanding is compounded by the complex, confusing system for designation and labelling of quality German wine – or Pradikatswein.
Pradikatswein is characterised by the exactitude of its label, which tells you the producer, the grape and the vintage, as well as the region of origin, the village within the region, the vineyard within the village, the ripeness of the grapes at harvest, the approximate dryness of the final wine, even, if you look hard enough, the year of bottling.
For example, a German Pradikatswein label might read: “Kloster Eberbach, Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen, Riesling Spätlese trocken, 2007”. To the experienced German drinker this is mouth-watering stuff: a Riesling, from an historic producer, all sourced from the Wisselbrunnen vineyard in Hattenheim, harvested late and fermented dry. To your average shopper, it’s double-dutch.
Making Pradikatswein understandable without detracting from its history and detail is an ongoing struggle for producers and trade bodies. Navigating between different vineyards, styles and producers is the raison d’être of the Riesling anorak, but is it really necessary that fine German wine labelling should be so much more complicated than that of Bordeaux, Burgundy or the New World?
Germany will never compete with France, Spain or Italy for popularity in the UK. For one thing, its production is one tenth that of any of these countries. But German wine deserves a restoration of its reputation for producing some of the world’s finest and most distinctive wines, both red, white, sweet, dry, still and sparkling. Every wine drinker benefits from a sense of adventure, and in Germany the rewards are as rich as they are unexpected.